Always keep in mind that the back of your bra, the cups and the straps all work together to provide comfort and support. When one of these aspects isn’t fitting right, then the others probably won’t either. The majority of us take more than just one size or shape, depending on the bra company, the style of the bra (e.g. demi-bust, full coverage, etc.), the fabric they use, and so on. For instance, some 34B bras can fit more like a 36B, while others will fit more like a 34C, even within the same company! It’s not rocket science, but often it can seem just as complicated. Here’s some advice that I hope will guide you in your quest for your perfect fit.
When you first buy a bra, it is always best to adjust your bra either to the loosest hook in the back, or to the middle notch. NEVER buy a bra if you have to attach it to the tightest hook to feel adequately supported. Your bra band will stretch naturally with wash and wear, so you want to reserve the tighter hooks for later on. When you start off at the tightest hook from the get-go, you will be left with no room to make it fit more snugly when your bra’s elastic stretches out.
So, while you’re hooked at your middle or loosest notch in the back, the band should be aligned straight around your rib cage when your shoulder straps are comfortably adjusted. If too much flesh is spilling out around the sides, and you feel asphyxiated, then you need to increase the back band by a size. If your bra rides up in the back, or even in the front, then you need to decrease the band size accordingly. As a general rule of thumb, your bra should move with your body and not let you pop out of it as you go about your day!
I am constantly seeing women who are wearing a bra whose band size is too large, just because it was the only way for them to attain the right cup size. Let’s say you usually take a 38D but your back is too loose, while the cups fit just fine. To find your optimum size, you would need to increase the cup size while decreasing the band size. In this case, you should try a 36DD instead of a 38D, which will fit more snugly around your back while offering a large enough cup to encase all of your breast tissue.
Let’s try another example using the previous 36DD bra, but in this case, the back band is just a tiny bit too small, while the cups fit properly. Although you may be tempted to try a 38DD, you will find that the cup size of a 38DD will be bigger than the 36DD and your back band will be much too loose. Instead, you can try using a bra back extender, which is a small accessory that attaches directly to the back of your bra without needing to be sewn. This ingenious little device will give you more hooks to use with the back band so that you can adjust your bra (looser or tighter), according to your daily comfort. By attaching this extender to your 36DD bra, you are maintaining the correct cup size, while giving yourself some more wiggle room in the back
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